Day 118 - Exploring Lecce on Our Own Terms
We were all up around 6:30 and eased into the morning with a simple breakfast. The kids had yoghurt and muesli, I had the same, and Kia went for eggs. It was one of those slow starts where no one was rushing, just enjoying a bit of calm before the day began.
We ducked out to the local shop to swap out the milk we’d bought the day before, which wasn’t great. While we were there, we grabbed some fresh bread rolls, ham, and cheese. Back at the apartment, we sat around eating, chatting, and getting ourselves organised for the day.
The original plan was to join a guided walking tour of Lecce, but when we saw it was going to cost around $100 for the four of us for just an hour and a half, it didn’t sit right. So instead, I put together our own walking tour, and that ended up being one of the best decisions we’ve made so far.
We started from our accommodation on Via Pietro Palumbo, just outside the old town. It was a quiet, everyday street, but within a few minutes, we were stepping into something completely different. That transition never gets old. One moment you’re in a normal neighbourhood, the next you’re surrounded by centuries of history.
We entered the old town through Porta Napoli, a huge triumphal arch built in 1548 to honour Charles V, who fortified Lecce during a time when southern Italy was under threat from the Ottoman Empire. Walking through it felt like crossing into another era, imagining what it would have been like for people entering the city hundreds of years ago.
From there, we made our way to Piazza del Duomo, which is one of the most impressive squares we’ve seen. Unlike most piazzas, it’s enclosed on three sides, almost like a grand courtyard. It gives the whole space a really unique and almost private feel. The cathedral, bell tower, and surrounding buildings are all built from Lecce’s soft limestone, which allows for incredibly detailed carvings. Everywhere you look there are statues, patterns, and intricate details.
We bought a ticket that gave us access to the cathedral, museum, and bell tower. Climbing the 75 metre tower was a highlight, with views out over Lecce’s golden rooftops stretching in every direction.
By this point it was lunchtime, so we found a small local spot with heaps of options like arancini, little folded pizzas, wraps, and sandwiches. We grabbed a mix of everything and shared it between us, which worked out perfectly.
After lunch, we headed to the Basilica di Santa Croce, and this place is something else. The entire façade is covered in carvings, with animals, faces, mythical creatures, and all sorts of symbols worked into the stone. It’s one of the best examples of Lecce Baroque architecture and really shows how detailed and expressive the style is. You could stand there for ages and still keep noticing new things.
From there, we made our way to Piazza Sant’Oronzo, the main square of Lecce. It has a completely different feel, more open, more lively, and full of energy with cafes and people moving through. In the middle stands a column topped with a statue of Saint Oronzo, the city’s patron saint, who is said to have protected Lecce from plague.
Right there in the square is the Roman Amphitheatre, dating back to the 2nd century AD. It once held around 15,000 people for gladiator fights and public events. What’s interesting is that it’s only partially uncovered, with the rest still buried beneath the city, showing how Lecce has been built up over time.
Around this point, Kia started feeling a bit unwell, so we decided to wrap things up and head back. We took our time wandering back through the streets, just enjoying the feel of the place. Lecce really is a beautiful city, with its wide streets, warm stone buildings, and relaxed atmosphere.
We got back to the apartment around 4:30 after a solid few hours out. I headed off for a quick run, doing a lap around the medieval city and running past old walls and historic buildings, which was pretty cool.
Back at the apartment, the kids and I went across the road to grab ingredients for dinner. We decided on chicken masala, which turned out way spicier than expected. We tried to balance it out with yoghurt, then added more yoghurt, and even went back to the shop for extra, but it still had a serious kick. Everyone battled through it, but it gave us a few laughs.
We cooked together, had a movie on in the background, and just wound the day down as a family. By around 8:30, we were all done and into bed after a really good day.
It ended up being one of the best days we’ve had exploring a city. No schedule, no rushing, just moving at our own pace and actually understanding what we were looking at. Being able to explain the history to the kids as we went made a huge difference. It turned a simple walk into something much more meaningful, and for the cost of zero dollars compared to a guided tour, it’s a no-brainer.