Day Forty - 30/12/25
Day 40, the big 4-0, started on a much better note. Everyone slept well, moods were up, and Emmett was awake at 6:30am already packing his bag and ready to move on from Da Nang. He was genuinely excited, and when he’s excited it lifts the whole family. It felt like a good sign.
We made a very deliberate decision not to go upstairs for hotel breakfast again. We just couldn’t do it to ourselves. Instead, we skipped the gym, headed straight out onto the street, and walked to our favourite little coffee cart nearby. Kia and I grabbed coffees, and the kids got juices, orange and pineapple. We skipped teas and smoothies today to keep the sugar a bit lower. Simple, fresh, and exactly what we needed.
From there, we went back to the same little caravan café we’d eaten at the day before. I’d spotted someone demolishing a bacon-and-egg panini yesterday and couldn’t stop thinking about it. Turns out it was a great call. We all ordered the same thing and it was filling, tasty, and done properly. I went for a hot Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk instead of the usual iced version and it absolutely hit the spot. Easily one of the better coffees I’ve had so far in Vietnam.
After breakfast, we headed back to the room to finish packing and get ourselves organised. We had a bit of time before checkout, so we ducked into H&M for a look around. There was supposed to be an ice-skating rink there too, with the plan being that the kids and I would skate while Kia did some birthday shopping for Emmett. That didn’t quite work out as the rink was closed, but Kia still found a great toy shop and picked up a few things she knows Emmett will love. We also grabbed him a few new shirts. He’s growing fast and going through clothes quickly, so it was time to beef up his suitcase a bit. Shorts are next on the list.
We raced back to the hotel, checked out, and jumped in a Grab. On the way we needed to stop at an ATM to get cash for the next place. VP Bank, which we’ve used plenty of times, refused to dispense Vietnamese dong, and the same thing had just happened to a European guy before me. Our Grab driver took us to TP Bank instead, which worked straight away. Problem solved.
The drive from Da Nang to Hoi An took about 45 minutes. When we arrived at our booked accommodation, it became clear pretty quickly that the photos on Booking.com had been generous. The place was much smaller than expected, with a tiny pool that wasn’t suitable for letting the kids run around freely, which was exactly what we were hoping for. On top of that, there was constant construction noise across the road with steel beams being dropped. It just wasn’t going to work.
Thankfully, we had free cancellation. The owner was genuinely lovely and even let us sit inside and use the Wi-Fi while we rebooked somewhere else. We jumped back in another Grab and headed to a place we’d originally looked at but skipped because it was slightly more expensive.
When we arrived at the new place, the gate was closed and for a moment I thought here we go again. But once inside, we met Hung, who was incredibly welcoming. He confirmed our booking, showed us the rooms, and straight away it felt right. The place is spotlessly clean, big enough for the kids to actually move, and small overall with only six rooms total. The kids have their own room and bathroom, and Kia and I have ours, with a divider door in between. That setup alone has made everyone happier.
We’re slightly out of town, surrounded by rice paddies, so it feels rural, quiet, and calm. After the noise and confinement of Da Nang, it’s exactly what we needed.
One room still needed a quick clean, so Hung suggested we grab some lunch and pointed us to a spot just around the corner. The food was unreal. The restaurant also runs cooking classes, and the woman running it, T, came and sat with us for a proper chat before it got busy. Her husband is a chef who teaches at the local culinary school, and the pride they take in their food really shows. The kids had spaghetti, Kia had a chicken salad, and I had a beef pho that was absolutely spot on. I also had a couple of Huda beers, a local Da Nang brew I’m really enjoying. It was one of those rare travel moments where everything slows down and you actually connect with someone local, not a guide and not a transaction, just a genuine conversation.
Back at the accommodation, we checked in properly and the kids went straight to the pool. It was a bit cool, around 24 degrees, but that didn’t stop swimming races and plenty of energy. It felt like a proper reset. Later, we jumped on bikes and rode toward town to find dinner. Kia and I rode, and the kids sat on the little cushion seats on the back, which meant no tired legs and no complaints. They were stoked just cruising along.
After a few false starts, we settled on a vegan and vegetarian restaurant. The kids had spaghetti again, Kia had spring rolls, we shared some chips, and I ordered a yellow curry that was genuinely one of the best I’ve ever had. Some beef instead of tofu would have taken it to the next level, but even as it was, it was bloody good.
Right next door was a beautiful little gift-style shop with fine foods, coffee beans, and trinkets. Kia picked up some coffee to try with the little drip coffee setup I got her for Christmas, which felt like a perfect way to finish the day.
Day 40 felt like a reset. Good sleep, good food, fun bike rides, and space to breathe. We’ve landed somewhere that feels right. Quiet, clean, spacious, and calm. If this is how Hoi An is going to be, it feels like we’re in for a really good chapter.