Day Fifty-Four - 13/1/26

Waking up in Phong Nha felt like a reset.

A comfortable bed. Warm blankets. A proper hot shower the night before. Clean, rested, and finally not cold. Maddie and I shared one room, Kia and Emmett had the other, and for the first time in a few days everyone slept well. We even managed a bit of a sleep-in, which felt like a luxury.

We’d organised breakfast the night before, so we wandered down to the big communal table in the eating area together. Kia and I had omelettes with fresh bread rolls. Emmett went with banana pancakes, which were more like crepes rolled around a whole banana, pan-fried until the banana went soft and squishy. Maddie had the same but with pineapple, both of them dunking everything into chocolate dipping sauce like it was the most normal thing in the world. We also shared a big fruit platter, plus coffees, teas, and juices. It was one of those breakfasts that feels calm and generous, the kind you don’t rush through.

After that we just potted around for a while, getting our bearings and figuring out the day. The kids were absolutely bouncing off the walls, high energy after finally sleeping well. I took the chance to open my work laptop now that we had solid internet and a decent setup. I checked emails, replied to a few things, and confirmed that nothing was urgent enough to steal the day.

While I was doing that, Kia organised bikes through the accommodation so we could ride into town. We’re about three kilometres out of the centre, so it felt like a nice distance. Maddie chose a bike that looked her size but turned out to be pretty awful. Not far into the ride she was done with it. So she and Kia swapped. Kia then discovered the bike was tiny and her knees were basically up around her chin. She asked how far we were going because she wasn’t sure she could last.

I wanted to keep moving, so I took one for the team and rode the dodgy bike. Kia took mine, Maddie took Kia’s, and Emmett cruised along on a little pink bike with a basket on the front, absolutely loving life. It was genuinely funny watching him beam with happiness on a bike that probably cost ten dollars. It made us question why we spent so much money on a fancy mountain bike back home when clearly a farm bike does the job just fine.

The ride itself was fun, but Maddie was in one of those moods where anything physical suddenly feels like too much. It happens from time to time. One day she doesn’t want to walk, ride, or do anything, and the next day she’s ready to cycle across an entire country. Parenting while travelling definitely keeps you on your toes.

We eventually rolled into town and found a really nice café that did pizzas, salads, and good coffee. Prices were noticeably higher than what we’d been paying recently, but after six days of living cheaply on the farm, Kia suggested we splash out. The kids and I each ordered a pizza. Kia went for a big, fresh salad. I had a coffee peanut butter smoothie that was unreal. Kia stuck with a black coffee, and the kids had teas. Everything was genuinely good, and we all left full and happy.

The ride back was a completely different experience. Maddie’s mood had flipped, she was laughing and enjoying it, and the kilometres went quickly. Back at the accommodation, Kia and I sat chatting while the kids ran around burning off energy. Maddie called one of her friends back home and spent a while wandering around on the phone, half chatting, half pacing.

Eventually we decided to give the kids some proper downtime. Tablets came out, movies were chosen, and Kia and I sat back watching the quiet rhythms of the place. There were a few odd things happening around the accommodation that we couldn’t quite work out, but nothing worth diving into too deeply.

Later in the afternoon, Kia and I switched gears and started planning ahead. We worked on accommodation and car hire for Austria, particularly Vienna before heading off skiing. Accommodation is mostly sorted, but car hire is a mess. Prices are all over the place depending on the website, and insurance options are confusing. We need something that fits four people, four big bags, plus backpacks, which isn’t as easy as it sounds. In Vietnam we’ve been using seven-seaters and dropping the back seats, but that’s not really an option everywhere else.

As the evening rolled in, the woman who runs the place asked if we’d like roast chicken for dinner. That was an easy yes. While she cooked, we played Monopoly, Kia and I had a beer, and we just hung out together as a family. Emmett jumped in the pool despite it being freezing. At first he insisted it wasn’t cold. A few minutes later he was shivering. The kid will swim anywhere, anytime.

We also booked a day trip for the next day to visit caves and go kayaking, which everyone is pretty excited about.

Dinner was excellent. A whole chicken split open and roasted with spices, a huge plate of vegetables, and a bowl of rice. Simple, filling, and exactly what we needed. Everyone ate well except Emmett, who declared himself full, then later dramatically announced he was starving and might die of hunger. I’m confident he’ll survive until morning.

By seven o’clock we were all done. Showers, quiet time, and bed. Maddie and I watched a movie and were asleep by nine. Kia and Emmett had their own evening, which included more complaints about hunger and a bit of drama, but eventually everyone settled.

A calm, grounding first day in Phong Nha. Tomorrow brings caves, kayaking, and proper adventure. Looking forward to it.